A curving silver dragon is prominently displayed on each side of this pointed detachable collar. In Chinese mythology, dragons and phoenix patterns symbolize nobility and power; they are associated with water and fire, yin and yang, masculine and feminine. Throughout the design, storm clouds brew signifying energy and fortune. The outermost border features varied-colored peonies, a popular flower in China, representing wealth and beauty. An embodiment of Confucianist cosmology, details focus on the circular neckline as heaven, the flat fabric for the Earth, and the wearer’s head is humanity, all in harmony.
As a pi ling (皮岭) or formal collar, it would have adorned the official robes of emperors, empresses, and aristocratic authority in the imperial court during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). The materials, colors, and motifs of court attire were strictly regulated. Made of silk and metallic threads woven together in a complex technique with a two-person loom, the brocade fabric is known for its shiny finish, vibrancy, weight, and intricacy. The Silk Road trading routes (130 BCE-1453 CE) between Asia and Europe increased silk brocade’s desirability. In the early 20th century Qing Dynasty, it remained a highly valued, luxury textile, further elevating the collar’s complex symbolism.
Research and description written by Matt Mageno, 2026