Silver chrysanthemum medallions float among cascading willow branches on this plum-colored short jacket. The brocade pattern covers the entire surface, creating a steady rhythm between the round flower heads and the long trailing fronds. A distinctive scalloped zigzag edge runs along the collar, sleeve openings, and hemline, finished with thin light piping that traces each curve. The wide-open sleeves and short length ending well above the knee identify this as a woman's ao (θΆ„), a jacket traditionally paired with a skirt or trousers. Brocade weaving builds these metallic silver patterns directly into the silk during production.
Chrysanthemums hold a special place in Chinese symbolism. They bloom in autumn when other flowers fade, earning an association with resilience, endurance, and long life. The trailing willow branches woven between the medallions represent grace and flexibility. Before the one-piece qipao took over in the 1920s, the ao jacket paired with a skirt serves as the standard outfit for Chinese women going back centuries. During the Qing dynasty (1636 to 1912), the government imposed strict rules on what fabrics and colors different social classes could wear. Deep burgundy, associated with elegant refinement, was worn by women of the upper class who had more freedom than men in their everyday clothing, choosing their own patterns and styles.
Description written by Adam Perez, 2026.