Hmong (Meo) Skirt

This is a traditional Blue Hmong woman's accordion-pleated skirt (tia mong njua) made of indigo-dyed hemp cloth, which the Hmong (meo) women still weave themselves to this day.

The Hmong loom is unique in that it combines features of both body-tension and frame looms. Hemp (cannabis sativa) is preferred over cotton because its glossiness and greater weight give extra bounce and swing to the skirt as the wearer moves. The Hmong and Akha people in the hills of Thailand therefore grow hemp from seed in small plots.

Once the hemp cloth is woven, Blue Hmong women decorate it with geometric design motifs using batik-resist dying technique. They use a bamboo stick to apply the wax or rice-paste resist. Garment made from the indigo dyed hemp batik, such as this skirt, are usually then accented with intricate reverse applique (paj ntaub, or "flower cloth") and, more recently, cross-stitch embroidery.

Techniques: batik, reverse applique
Culture: Hmong
Geographic Location:
Credit Line: Gift of Yvonne Porcella