The Hawaiian Islands rise majestically from the Pacific Ocean floor. 2,400 miles from the nearest land mass.The volcanic lands became home to a lush tropical environment; some specimens of flora and fauna are uniquein all the world. Historians speculate that the islands were settled by Polynesians from the Marquesas Islands some time between 400-750 AD. The Hawaiian culture thrived and evolved, in complete isolation, until the late 1700s, when contact with Western culture brought drastic and rapid change to every aspect of the Hawaiian Kingdom, culminating in the loss of sovereignty at the end of the 19th century.

Shortly after British Captain James Cook inadvertently landed on the shores of Hawaii in 1778, the islands were united as one kingdom under King Kamehameha I. In 1794, Captain Vancouver gave King Kamehameha a "Union Jack" and offered the islands British protection. But during the war of 1812, King Kamehameha perceived the British flag as a liability and decided to design his own royal flag. The royal flag, like the political climate, changed over the years and as the economic influence of newcomers to the Islands grew, the power of Hawaii's monarchy waned. Although a succession of kings and queens during the 19th century were well loved and honored by the native population, the monarchy was increasingly deceived and outmaneuvered by various foreign interests. In January of 1891, Queen Liliuokalani ascended to the throne. She opposed the movement to have the Hawaiian Islands annexed by the United States and announced her plans to proclaim a new constitution. In January of 1893, martial law was declared by a hastily formed provisional government and Queen Liliuokalani was forced from the throne. The royal Hawaiian flag was lowered for the last time. Despite numerous diplomatic efforts to reinstate the monarchy and an attempted coup in 1894, Hawaii became a territory of the United States in 1898 and was granted statehood in 1959.

After the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, flying the royal Hawaiian flag became an act of treason against the new government. This bitter reality gave birth to what is now considered a separate major category of Hawaiian quilts; Royal Hawaiian Flag quilts. Unable to give up their beloved monarchy, their flag or hope for the future, Hawaiian quilt makers began incorporating the flag into their quilts and hiding the quilts in their homes. Some quilted the flag into canopies for their beds so they could sleep beneath it. Others made reversible quilts; a traditional quilt on one side and their beloved flag on the other. Royal Hawaiian Flag quilts are the most highly prized and cherished of any Hawaiian quilts and have been carefully passed down through the generations of many families.

While it is generally accepted by historians that the majority of Royal Hawaiian Flag quilts were made after 1893, there is growing evidence to suggest that flag quilts were made as early as 1843. This Royal Hawaiian Flag quilt is dated April 4, 1889, making it earlier than most and atypical for the genre. The worst enemies of all textiles--humidity, molds, mildew and insects--abound in the lush tropical environment of Hawaii, seriously curtailing the life expectancy of all textiles, including quilts. However, Hawaiian quilt makers have evolved a unique way to address this problem. When a valued quilt has reached an irredeemable point of deterioration, the quilt is carefully and faithfully reproduced and the original discarded.

In keeping with this custom, the Royal Hawaiian Flag quilt exhibited here is a faithful and accurate reproduction, beautifully executed by The Appliqué Society in Washington. The original quilt was gifted to the permanent collection of the San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles by Mrs. Helen Caswell in 1979. The original quilt is in very poor condition and has never been exhibited.

We are extremely grateful to The Appliqué Society for their skill, craftsmanship and dedication to the art of appliqué and for their willingness to share it with the San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles in such a tangible and generous manner. In particular, we would like to thank Nancy Lee Chong whose expert needle provided the appliqué work and whose passion for Royal Hawaiian Flag quilts launched this collaboration.

Piece work was done by Janice Lee Baehr and the hand quilting by Justina Ahrens, Jaydee Price, 'Della Kelley, Delayne LaVallie, Anne Gillihan, LouAnn White, Shirley Taylor, Peggy Bennett, Rebekah Pierson, Monica Boomer, Laura Johnson, Kathy Lucas, Kathy Eytcheson, Mary Lewis, Lindy Feigenbutz, Maureen Pierce, Janice Baehr and Nancy Lee Chong. We thank
them all. Special thanks are also due to HOBBS BONDED FIBERS, INC. for donating two batts that are in keeping with the one used in the original quilt.

Techniques: Hand appliqued, hand quilted
Culture: Hawaiian
Geographic Location: South Pacific and Polynesia, Hawaii
Credit Line: Gift of The Applique Society of America