Rank badges or Mandarin squares were used to demonstrate civil, military or imperial rank in China during the Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1911). These insignia were sewn onto or woven into the wearer’s garments to indicate their rank.

Civil officials wore insignia with different bird species corresponding to their rank. To attain a Civil position required years of intense study, so birds may have been selected because of their literary associations. In the Qing Dynasty the order from highest to lowest was: crane, golden pheasant, peacock, wild goose, silver pheasant, egret, mandarin duck, quail and paradise flycatcher. Civil officials sat on the emperor’s left at court functions, so their rank birds faced right towards him.

Based in the elements in this Mandarin square, it could be from the Qing Dynasty. Such characteristics we see a sun, a single bird at the center, the smaller size of the square, and depictions of clouds and abstract designs in the background. The background is made up of a fine gold silk.

This Mandarin square shows an egret, a symbol of the honest and incorruptible official. Rank badges are made of embroidered silk, brocade or kesi.

Techniques: Hand embroidery
Culture: Chinese
Geographic Location: Asia, China
Credit Line: Gift of Jaci Hall